It's the time of the year again for another
vacation. This time around my wife and I decided that we pay a visit to
Angkor Wat in Cambodia. I still recall some fuzzy memory of my last visit
here at about 7 years ago and it was a pleasant experience and not forgetting
the extremely hot weather during the peak season. We really got lucky as
the month of June and July of the year are typically low peak season and
supposedly rainy and it barely rained except for some minor drizzling.
DAY 1 - 30/6/2014 Monday
We arrived at Siem Reap airport at around
1420hrs Cambodia time. Siem Reap has not changed much but tourism development
has sprouted numerous 4 to 5 stars luxurious hotels which are very affordable.
We manage to book Royal Crown Hotel & Spa which was located only a
short walking distance from the Old Market and Pub Street. Hence, getting
around the town having meals, buying souvenirs and visiting some of the
local attractions are hassle free.
Since it was pretty late in the afternoon,
we wasted no time but headed to old market and have our lunch at The Soup
Dragon. We are delighted that the curry fish, seafood salad and the beer
were fantastic. Generally, the food in Siem Reap are reasonable priced
in the range of USD2 to USD5 per dish. The type of food available comes
in huge varieties as the menu of almost each restaurant we had visited
are rather impressive. The Cambodian beer is about USD0.50 which was nice
too.
After our lunch, we went over to Siem
Reap Art Center and there are various kind of crafts, bedsheets, t-shirts,
jewelleries, hats and the list goes on. After a short while, we walked
over to Wat Damnak which was originally King Sisowath royal palace which
eventually becomes a Buddhist monastery. Wat Damnak is now an independent
institution on Khmer cultural studies and has
one of the largest public academic library in Cambodia
outside of Phnom
Penh. It is not surprising that
we do see students within Wat Damnak having some leisure time, studying
and playing around with friends. It was also getting late and we decided
to call it a day and return to our hotel.
DAY 2 - 1/7/2014 Tuesday
As usual, we had confirmed our 3 days
tour via online with a guy called San Park several months earlier after
much research on how to go about our trip. Our 1st day tour was an impressive
one as the places that we are covering are staggering. Our morning started
off with the purchase of the 3 days pass which cost USD40/person and our
tuk tuk driver, Mr.Paul was a very courteous, polite and always a smiling
guy. Since I knew that Angkor Wat temples are located less than 9km from
Siem Reap, it was a right decision to just take a tuk tuk which cost us
about USD60 for 3 days and for both of us which was a great deal.
Our journey started with the visit to
the South Gate which was in itself a splendor of what to come. Later, we
also have the opportunity to visit Angkor Thom also known as the 'Great
City' in Khmer which consists of Bayon, Baphuon, Terraces of Elephants
& Leper King which was established during the 12th century ruling of
Jayavarman VII. We were left to explore the temples ourselves without our
tour guide to rush us which was a bonus. Each of these attractions has
its own uniqueness and a story behind it on itself. Bayon was the most
distinctive with its huge 4 sided stone faces on most of the towers which
some expert refer it to the faces of Jayavarman himself portraying as the God
King. Others may refer the faces as the Hindu gods and even Buddha at the
later centuries. Nevertheless, the remaining ruins are magnificent and
still constantly in restoration at present day.
After much eye opener in just the 1st
day morning of our tour, we settled for a simple lunch at a restaurant
within the Angkor Wat vicinity as recommended by Mr.Paul. The choices are
good but the price are rather high as the restaurant is situated within
the temple attractions. We only ordered a sweet and sour pork at about
USD8 with rice and plain drinking water and we are quite surprise as the
dish in itself is quite a large portion which we barely manage to finish.
After our lunch and much rest, we were
on our trip to Banteay Srey which was one of the furthest temple of the
archaeological sites and about 26km from our location in Angkor Thom which
took us almost an hour to reach via tuk tuk. I still recalled my 1st visit
to Banteay Srey in the early hours of the morning and the red sandstone
really brings out the temple glory during the sun rise. It's best to visit
it during sunrise but our trip this time around was planned in the afternoon
and the huge difference is very obvious. Nevertheless, it was not crowded
as it's already late afternoon and our visit during a low peak season does
give us the opportunity to take more photos without having too much obstructions.
Banteay Srey was dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva and built at around 10th
century and the main attractions are the intricate decorative carvings
which are still visible at present day.
On our way back, we had our chance to
visit Banteay Samre, a 12th century hindu temple built by Suryavarman II
and Yasovarman II. There's also a legend that tells a Banteay Samre king
which was a cucumber farmer but I won't delve into the details. Since I'm
at it,... it was told that the original king likes the farmer's cucumber
so much that he will kill anyone who tries to eat them. One day the king
went to the farm wanting to taste the cucumber late night but was killed
by the cucumber farmer thinking the king was a thief. As the king do not
have any replacement, it was decided that the royal elephant chose the
king by letting it roam the lands and eventually bow to the cucumber farmer
and he was bestowed as the new king! However, the royal servants disrespect
the new king and the farmer left the palace and hid in Banteay Samre. Sometimes
I felt that little stories or legend are told for a reason with a hidden
message behind it. Usually there are told among the villagers or the peasant
and low ranking hierarchy in society expressing the dissatisfaction in
life. Similarly, some are told in novel and art form at present day by
artist like Ai Wei Wei, etc.
By the end of the day, Mr.Paul brought
us to our requested side tour to the Landmine Museum during our visit in
Banteay Srey. Luckily enough we manage to visit the rather small museum
(I rather call it an exhibit) and it took us 10 minutes to finish looking
around the exhibit but it does give us some history of war and landmines
in Cambodia. The entrance fee was recently raised from USD1 to USD3 per
person and part of the entrance fee will be used for help care of children
who live there and support for the relief center.
Well, our day ended with much anticipation
for the 2nd day tour highlights on Angkor Wat.
DAY 3 - 2/7/2014 Wednesday
Our 2nd day tour was really testing
our physicality to the limits considering the temples that we are about
to visit. Our 1st temple is a visit to Angkor Wat also know as 'City of
Temples' which is one of the largest religious monument in the world built
by Suryavarman II. The temple is surrounded by a moat with an outer wall
of 3.6km and we have to walk across the stone bridge which was about 235m
in length. I watched a documentary on Angkor Wat on my flight to Siem Reap
and it was told that Suryavarman ambushed and killed his uncle, Dharanindravarman
I to take over his throne during the king's excursion in the jungle. It
was during his reign of power that he expanded his borders into Siam, Laos
and Peninsular Malaysia. It was also his desire to bring heaven down to
earth in which Angkor Wat was built with 5 towers representation of Mount
Meru with the centre highest tower linking to the chambers where the King
rest in peace. There are still several other theories on how Angkor Wat
was built but we just have to settle with this as it relates back to the
inscriptions found on the bas relief and other expert findings. We might
got a chance to know the true story if we only have a time machine! or
perhaps hollywood might just do a movie on the reign of Suryavarman II
as they did with 'Prince of Egypt' and the upcoming 'Gods and Kings'.

After our lunch we continue with our
visit to Ta Prohm, Preah Khan, Neak Pean and Pre Rup temples. Ta Prohm
was made famous and better known when the movie, Tomb Raider was released
some years back. It was founded by Jayavarman VII at around early 13th
centrury as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. It was very popular
due to its giant silk and banyan trees growth enveloping the temple and
its surroundings as though it was just founded by some scholars. However,
Ta Prohm did not age well as one of the largest giant tree which was an
attraction there was not visible despite our several attempts to find it.
I later noticed some of the visitors also surprised as to not finding the
giant tree. There's no doubt that there are still several other giant trees
here and some of which are at 400 years old. I also notice that one of
the giant tree seems to be uprooting and the stones in which the tree roots
grasp has been missing and metal brace was used to prevent it from uprooting
further. I would certainly imagine that the temples are slowly and gradually
deteriorating despite much efforts of restoration. I also noticed some
stones are bulging outwards at the bottom of the walls indicating lateral
force and inconsistent loading dispersion from the top. This may just be
my own opinion and we do hope that it stands majestic for decades to come
so that the next generation may see it with awe. We were also quite shock
to find that the bridge with its tug of war figures were headless when
compared back to our old photos of the Angkor South Gate.

Anyhow, we just have to move on with
the other attractions. One of the serene attraction was an artificial island
Buddhist temple called Neak Pean which was also built by King Jayavarman
VII. I guess the King is certainly having an interesting life with
all these constructions during his lifetime. Once we reached Neak Pean,
we had to walk about 400 metres toward the temple with the soil path and
a very interesting wooden platform crossing a lake. I have to say the lake
is rather interesting with slim leafless trees, tree logs floating, whistling
sound of crickets and toads. The word Neak in itself means 'naga' in Sanskrit
or dragon and most often associated with the 2 dragons of Anavatapta, the
mythical lake in Himalayas with its waters having curing properties.

With Preah Khan and Pre Rup visited,
we just have to call it a day as it was really a marathon of 10 hours non
stop. I still recalled that my friend almost had a heatstroke when visiting
Angkor Wat on our 1st visit here having exposed to direct sunlight at 35
degree celcius is just no joke and fun. Once we reached hotel, I just couldn't
take it and started to feel ill already and went for dinner at our hotel
before hitting our cosy bed.
DAY 4 - 3/7/2014 Thursday
Day 3 was really a killer and I meant
killer not because of the marathon of places to visit but the heat. Luckily,
I had some medicine last night and now I'm back on my feet for the last
day of my tour. We started our journey to floating village near Phnom Krom
at about 11km south from our hotel. It was a bumpy ride as there's practically
no roads but undulating red earth but we do see a lot of laid back living
lifestyle in villages and small huts. Unfortunately, once we reached the
floating village, it has already moved out as the rainy seasons are coming
and our driver is also not aware of it. We may actually be able to see
them by taking a boat to their location which may take 1/2 day from what
we overheard later. So, Mr.Paul decided to bring us to the villager's market
near Phnom Krom and some of the Roluos Group temples which was not covered
in our itineraries. The market was rather small as we manage to walk pass
it in less than 1/2 hour.

In fact, I missed out on the Roluos
Group on my 1st visit to Cambodia. It actually consists of Lolei, Preah
Ko and Bakong. There's also Prasat Pre Monti which our driver skip as it's
too small and insignificant. Lolei was the first temple we visit and also
the last to be built by Khmer king Yasovarman I for his dedication of Shiva
and his member of royal family. It was rather small and still under some
kind of restoration. Preah Ko better known as 'The Sacred Bull' in Khmer
was built by Indravarman I in 879.


I strongly felt that it was one of the
impressive temple within the Roluos Group with its intricate carvings and
architecture. Our last visit was Bakong and it was a sizable sandstone
temple mountain with a stepped shape pyramid. We did a short walk up the
steps and took some photos before returning to our tuk tuk. Some said that
Bakong was built in reference to Borobudur temple in Java due to its similar
architecture. Our Day 4 was a short one as we manage to finish our tour
right before lunch. We requested Mr.Paul to drop us at Siem Reap town for
our lunch at old market before returning to hotel.
DAY 5 - 4/7/2014 Friday
On Day 5, we manage to have a long night
sleep yesterday and our luggage are all pack up ready to fly back to Malaysia.
Mr.Paul agreed to send us to airport with a fare of USD5 which was very
reasonable but we just tipped him an extra USD3 for his sincerity and humbleness.
We felt that most Cambodian people are very friendly despite being poor
and live a simple life. My Cambodia trip did not covers the capital city
of Cambodia, Phnom Penh and perhaps it could possibly be my 3rd trip here
in future. Overall, my stay in Siem Reap was very pleasant and the food
were very nice despite the hot weather throughout our tours.
There's so much more to talk about Angkor Wat but I would just sum it up in 3 words, "Explore, Enjoy & Exhale".